When you have long nails, it's important to do everything possible to keep them healthy and hygienic. "Remember, the longer the nail, the more surface area there is to keep it healthy and maintain," board-certified dermatologist Dr. Dana Stern explains. "Just like we care for our skin to optimize our makeup, the same is true for the nail; You need a smooth, healthy surface to optimize polish and other enhancements."
So, how do you actually go about maintaining long, healthy nails? Ahead, experts share their top tips for caring for your nails and the skin around them.
Meet the Experts
- Dr. Dana Stern is a board-certified dermatologist focused on nail health and founder of Dr. Dana.
- Dr. Brendan Camp, MD, FAAD, is a double board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology in Manhattan.
- Julie Kandalec is a celebrity manicurist and educator based in New York.
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Moisturize Your Nails
The skin around your nails and even the nails crave moisture. "Moisturize the nails nightly to prevent them from becoming dry, which can predispose them to cracking and splitting," Dr. Brendan Camp says. "Avoid picking at the nail or the base (cuticle) because this can cause nail deformities."
Celebrity manicurist Julie Kandalec also recommends diligently applying oils and creams to your nails. "Most people know to apply cuticle oil to the tops of their nails, but applying it to the underside of the nails is key too," she says. "This will help to prevent the free edge [of your nail] from curling in and also prevent those painful tears of the hyponychium—the delicate skin where the nail meets the fingertip."
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Buff Your Nail Plate
Kandalec says, "Buffing the surface [of the nail plate] is encouraged with a very fine-grit padded buffer." This is important because it helps smooth out ridges on the nail to allow for better polish application, lifts the cuticle that may be attached to the nail plate, and gives the nail a touch of "grip" to allow the polish to adhere longer.
"When it comes to filing and buffing long nails, using a fine grit file (a glass file or sapphire one is even better) to prevent micro tears in the free edge, which will lead to snagging and breaking," Kandelec adds. "A glass file will seal the edge. When looking for file grits, I recommend a 400-grit file. Never use a coarse grit file that is 180 or lower."
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Apply a Coat of Builder Gel
Consider applying a layer of builder gel to protect your natural nails. "Many of my clients wear a thin coat of clear or sheer pink builder gel on their nails to keep their strength and shape," Kandalec says. "This prevents them from splitting in their busy daily lives and between red carpets and photo shoots."
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Use the Proper Tools to Clean Your Nails
Cleaning your nails regularly is essential, but it's crucial to avoid using damaging tools. "Never clean under the nail with a tool or brush," Dr. Stern says. "This can lead to onycholysis, which is when the nail lifts or separates from the nail bed. It usually occurs from overly aggressive cleaning under the nail with an orange stick or metal tool, but it can also be a sign of inflammatory disease such as nail bed psoriasis. Additionally, nail brushes cannot be sanitized, so whatever 'gunk' you clean out from under the nail will potentially remain and re-enter the nail with future use."
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Take Breaks from Nail Polish and Remover
While getting back-to-back manicures is tempting, you may want to skip salon appointments occasionally. "Consider giving your nails a break from polish occasionally," Dr. Camp says. "Nails can become dry, brittle, and discolored after repetitive exposure to nail polish and chemicals in polish removers."
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Use a Nail Treatment System
Investing in at-home nail treatments, likeDr. Dana's Nail Renewal System, can help you keep your long nails healthy. The system includes a glycolic acid prep wand, a grit buffer, and a deeply hydrating solution. "It is like a facial for nails," she says. "It is clinically proven to [improve] the appearance of nails, leaving them with a healthy, strong, smooth, shiny, and glossy look and feel."
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Have Nail Enhancements Professionally Removed
If you get acrylic or gel extensions, leave removal to the experts. "You must have them removed properly by an experienced professional who will take their time and do it properly," Kandalec says. "Doing this incorrectly or peeling them off will cause lasting damage that will take four or five months to grow out."